This gripping and triumphant memoir follows a living legend of extreme mountaineering as he makes his assault on history, one 8,000-meter summit at a time. For eighteen years Ed Viesturs pursued climbing’s holy grail: to stand atop the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, without the aid of bottled oxygen. But No Shortcuts to the Top is as much about the man who would become the first American to achieve that goal as it is about his stunning quest. As Viesturs recounts the stories of his most harrowing climbs, he reveals a man torn between the flat, safe world he and his loved ones share and the majestic and deadly places where only he can go. A preternaturally cautious climber who once turned back 300 feet from the top of Everest but who would not shrink from a peak (Annapurna) known to claim the life of one climber for every two who reached its summit, Viesturs lives by an unyielding motto, “Reaching the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” It is with this philosophy that he vividly describes fatal errors in judgment made by his fellow climbers as well as a few of his own close calls and gallant rescues. And, for the first time, he details his own pivotal and heroic role in the 1996 Everest disaster made famous in Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air. In addition to the raw excitement of Viesturs’s odyssey, No Shortcuts to the Top is leavened with many funny moments revealing the camaraderie between climbers. It is more than the first full account of one of the staggering accomplishments of our time; it is a portrait of a brave and devoted family man and his beliefs that shaped this most perilous and magnificent pursuit.
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"This was a wonderful book. Anyone who enjoys mountaineering or adventures would really appreciate this story. What really stood our to me was on page 317 where Ed shares, " Every perosn has his or her own Annapurna....but the trick is to find a way of converting adversity into soemthing positive, a challenge to look forward to." What an amazing mountaineer! I would love to hear him talk sometime. He has incredbile instinct, skill, and yet in his book seems humble and like someone that would be fun to talk to. Excellent!"
— Ellen (4 out of 5 stars)
" I read this book immediately after reading Krakeuer's Into Thin Air. It took me about 30-40 pages to realize that this would be a completely different kind of book-- Viesturs doesn't have the literary knack for prose and storytelling that Krakeuer is blessed with, but once I got over that, it ended up being a very worthy read. This book has certainly impacted how I intend to climb mountains, and I'm thankful that I read this before going on my first 14-er ascent late this summer. "
— Daniel, 2/19/2014" While this book is inspiring, there was something about his writing style that just didn't grab me. I found myself getting annoyed with him! "
— Charlene, 2/17/2014" Gripping story of one man's quest to climb the 14, but also an interesting perspective on mountain madness/summit fever. Shocking to realize that nearly half of this man's friends died in the pursuit. Yet nothing can hold them back. "
— Brycep, 2/16/2014" if you liked "Into Thin Air" you might enjoy this one "
— Nellie, 2/15/2014" In a sport that can go dangerous or careless in moments I like Viesturs approach. I love these climbing stories, and this one is so well done. Inspirational. "
— Brandon, 2/11/2014" Love this book. Love this man. True American hero. "
— Caroline, 2/9/2014" A fun inspiring account of a climbing legend following his dreams with prudence and conviction. A motto to live by, "the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory" articulates his philosophy on life very well. "
— Utahbrown, 2/1/2014" Awesome. You have not lived until you've made a run to a glaciated summit! "
— T, 1/14/2014" Some really captivating stories here. Too bad the same can't be said for the prose. "
— Nathan, 10/22/2013" Gotta admire Ed as a climber. Sensible. Controlled risk. Shares credit. Inspiring book that made me want to do my best in all aspects of my life. "
— Jeremy, 9/25/2013" My palms sweat reading this, as I pondered how safe and predictable my life is. "
— Mike, 8/28/2013" Visiting Denali National Park gave me a new appreciation for this book as well "
— Michelle, 11/13/2012" Ed Viesturs is an amazing mountaineer. Unfortunately, he's not a very good writer. His account of his attempt and eventual success in climbing the world's 14 highest peaks reads a lot like a very, very long resume. "
— Umachan, 10/7/2012" The writing style is a little plain and matter-of-fact, but I enjoyed reading about his quest to climb all the 8000 meter peaks in the world without oxygen. "
— Sarah, 8/21/2012" Thrilling account of his journey to climb every (14 of them) 8,000 meter (26,252 feet!) peak in the world. "
— Dave, 8/16/2012" some amazing climbing/training stories on his way to reaching his goal. cheesy at times. a good fun read (i used this book as a study break last spring!) "
— Liz, 7/10/2012" Interesting memoir about Ed Viestur's climbing career, but not as interesting as his K2 book. "
— Suman, 6/15/2012" Great book written by a respected climber, Ed Viesturs. So inspiring....follow your dreams, go with your gut, never give up. "
— Cynthia, 2/14/2012" One of the best mountaineers, I really liked how Ed keeps climbing in perspective. He says something like "you fail 100% of the climbs that you don't come back from" He is a very discplined climber and several times turned around meters short of the summitt. Some really cool stories about his climbs "
— Neil, 9/29/2011" Interesting read so far... And it's pretty sweet to hear from one of Eddie Bauer's First Ascent Team members... "
— Kenzie, 8/31/2011" Ed Viesturs is an animal. Pure and simple. A business-savvy, inspirational, safety-minded, fitness crazed mountain climbing machine. "
— Patrick, 8/1/2011" I really enjoyed a different perspective from a seemingly less egomaniacal mountaineer "
— Wade, 7/18/2011" An inspiring account of a man who never let his obsession for mountain climbing override the welfare of other climbers. Ed Viesturs demonstrates that through hard work, patience, common sense and humanity one can achieve almost anything. Not the best written book, but a joy to read nonetheless. "
— Derek, 6/15/2011" I enjoyed this book--I liked reading about someone who loves climbing but is also very careful in what he does. It was also sobering to read about all of the climbers who died... "
— Cindy, 5/5/2011" It didn't flow quite as well as K2, but still an interesting look into high-altitude mountaineering. "
— Jennifer, 3/27/2011" An honest look at world class mountain climbing. He talks a lot of technical talk and a lot about his failures. The amount of effort it takes does not make me want to climb an 8,000 meter mountain, but I did gain an appreciation for what he does. "
— Jim, 3/7/2011" I will never be a mountain climber, but I have read a lot of books by and about climbers. "Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory." Co-written with Dave Roberts, a well-written book about a master climber who hasn't let success go to his head. "
— Jamie, 3/3/2011" One of the best, most sensible climbing accounts. "
— Denis, 2/5/2011" Love Ed Viesturs, love this book. "
— Megan, 1/24/2011" In a sport that can go dangerous or careless in moments I like Viesturs approach. I love these climbing stories, and this one is so well done. Inspirational. "
— Brandon, 1/19/2011" really liked this book... amazing story of perseverance. very interesting and you feel like you are on his journey and climbing with him. "
— Amy, 11/7/2010" Possibly the best American mountaineer out there, Ed Viesturs is my new hero. He's climbed all 14 of the highest peaks in the world without supplemental oxygen. Although most people won't aspire to these goals, his philosophies as a climber can also be applied to anyone's life. "
— Amanda, 11/5/2010" Ed Viesturs is an amazing mountaineer. Unfortunately, he's not a very good writer. His account of his attempt and eventual success in climbing the world's 14 highest peaks reads a lot like a very, very long resume. "
— Umachan, 9/23/2010" Love this book. Love this man. True American hero. "
— CJMG, 9/9/2010" Straightforward account of a remarkable feat, the simple writing style, understatement and slightly unself-aware tone actually help the book be both enjoyable and moving. "
— Henry, 8/18/2010" I love these mountaineering books. I can't stop thinking about them after reading. "
— Ellis, 8/9/2010Ed Viesturs is a veteran world-class climber and bestselling author. He is the only American to have climbed all fourteen of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks. Viesturs is a professional mountaineer and works as a design consultant for several outdoor equipment manufacturers. In 2002 he was awarded the historic Lowell Thomas Award for outstanding achievement in the field of mountaineering and in 2005 he was awarded National Geographic’s Adventurer of the Year. He lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington with his family.
David Roberts (1943–2021) was the author of thirty books on mountaineering, exploration, and anthropology. His books won the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature and the Grand Prize at the Banff Mountain Book Competition.