This gripping and triumphant memoir follows a living legend of extreme mountaineering as he makes his assault on history, one 8,000-meter summit at a time. For eighteen years Ed Viesturs pursued climbing’s holy grail: to stand atop the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, without the aid of bottled oxygen. But No Shortcuts to the Top is as much about the man who would become the first American to achieve that goal as it is about his stunning quest. As Viesturs recounts the stories of his most harrowing climbs, he reveals a man torn between the flat, safe world he and his loved ones share and the majestic and deadly places where only he can go. A preternaturally cautious climber who once turned back 300 feet from the top of Everest but who would not shrink from a peak (Annapurna) known to claim the life of one climber for every two who reached its summit, Viesturs lives by an unyielding motto, “Reaching the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” It is with this philosophy that he vividly describes fatal errors in judgment made by his fellow climbers as well as a few of his own close calls and gallant rescues. And, for the first time, he details his own pivotal and heroic role in the 1996 Everest disaster made famous in Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air. In addition to the raw excitement of Viesturs’s odyssey, No Shortcuts to the Top is leavened with many funny moments revealing the camaraderie between climbers. It is more than the first full account of one of the staggering accomplishments of our time; it is a portrait of a brave and devoted family man and his beliefs that shaped this most perilous and magnificent pursuit.
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"This was a wonderful book. Anyone who enjoys mountaineering or adventures would really appreciate this story. What really stood our to me was on page 317 where Ed shares, " Every perosn has his or her own Annapurna....but the trick is to find a way of converting adversity into soemthing positive, a challenge to look forward to." What an amazing mountaineer! I would love to hear him talk sometime. He has incredbile instinct, skill, and yet in his book seems humble and like someone that would be fun to talk to. Excellent!"
— Ellen (4 out of 5 stars)
" I read this book immediately after reading Krakeuer's Into Thin Air. It took me about 30-40 pages to realize that this would be a completely different kind of book-- Viesturs doesn't have the literary knack for prose and storytelling that Krakeuer is blessed with, but once I got over that, it ended up being a very worthy read. This book has certainly impacted how I intend to climb mountains, and I'm thankful that I read this before going on my first 14-er ascent late this summer. "
— Daniel, 2/19/2014" While this book is inspiring, there was something about his writing style that just didn't grab me. I found myself getting annoyed with him! "
— Charlene, 2/17/2014" Gripping story of one man's quest to climb the 14, but also an interesting perspective on mountain madness/summit fever. Shocking to realize that nearly half of this man's friends died in the pursuit. Yet nothing can hold them back. "
— Brycep, 2/16/2014" if you liked "Into Thin Air" you might enjoy this one "
— Nellie, 2/15/2014" In a sport that can go dangerous or careless in moments I like Viesturs approach. I love these climbing stories, and this one is so well done. Inspirational. "
— Brandon, 2/11/2014" Love this book. Love this man. True American hero. "
— Caroline, 2/9/2014" A fun inspiring account of a climbing legend following his dreams with prudence and conviction. A motto to live by, "the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory" articulates his philosophy on life very well. "
— Utahbrown, 2/1/2014" Awesome. You have not lived until you've made a run to a glaciated summit! "
— T, 1/14/2014" Some really captivating stories here. Too bad the same can't be said for the prose. "
— Nathan, 10/22/2013" Gotta admire Ed as a climber. Sensible. Controlled risk. Shares credit. Inspiring book that made me want to do my best in all aspects of my life. "
— Jeremy, 9/25/2013" My palms sweat reading this, as I pondered how safe and predictable my life is. "
— Mike, 8/28/2013Ed Viesturs is a veteran world-class climber and bestselling author. He is the only American to have climbed all fourteen of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks. Viesturs is a professional mountaineer and works as a design consultant for several outdoor equipment manufacturers. In 2002 he was awarded the historic Lowell Thomas Award for outstanding achievement in the field of mountaineering and in 2005 he was awarded National Geographic’s Adventurer of the Year. He lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington with his family.
David Roberts (1943–2021) was the author of thirty books on mountaineering, exploration, and anthropology. His books won the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature and the Grand Prize at the Banff Mountain Book Competition.